Undercover SS03 “SCAB” Ethnic Jacket
an archival jacket from Jun Takahashi’s Spring/Summer 2003 “SCAB” collection — one of the defining collections in Undercover’s history and the season that marked the label’s Paris runway debut.
constructed around a black utilitarian field-jacket silhouette, the piece is densely worked with the collection’s recurring visual language: tonal military-style patches, contrasting graphics, mixed pocket constructions, exposed hardware, and a hand-worked ethnic textile appliqué extending from the hem. the otherwise monochromatic body makes the small section of brightly colored woven fabric feel especially deliberate.
rather than functioning as conventional military detailing, the accumulation of patches, symbols, trims, and irregular construction gives the jacket the reconstructed, almost archaeological quality that defines SCAB-era Undercover.