Raf Simons
From Raf Simons’ Spring/Summer 2002 “Woe Onto Those Who Spit on the Fear Generation… The Wind Will Blow It Back” collection, an early modular bomber built around the language of military and utilitarian uniform.
Cut in washed black fabric, the jacket is deliberately restrained from a distance, allowing its construction to reveal itself gradually. Heavy metal zippers run around the shoulders, allowing the sleeves to detach from the body and transforming the conventional bomber silhouette into a modular garment. Oversized curved front pockets are secured with exposed zippers, while a utility pocket at the sleeve, elasticated chest strap, stand collar, and concealed front closure reinforce the jacket’s militaristic character.
The simplicity is deceptive. Rather than relying on graphics, the piece expresses the ideas of SS02 through hardware, proportion, adaptability, and uniform-like detailing — placing it firmly within the vocabulary that defined Raf Simons’ most important early collections.